As the first lights of the morning gently part the darkness over Gaziantep, we turn our direction to that wounded yet equally ancient city right next to us, Aleppo. Inside me, there is the indescribable rush and flutter of a bird flapping its wings toward beyond the horizon. The subtle sorrow of never having set foot on these lands before that devastating war settles on my chest. I wish, I say to myself, I wish I could have breathed that air when everything was in its place. Even though this naive regret makes my heart ache slightly, the tremendous excitement of witnessing a brand new story draws me in.
A Philosophical Stance at the Border Gate
After a short journey, we arrive at the Kilis Öncüpınar Border Gate. At the border gate, a detail that catches my eye among the hurried crowd of passport control completely takes away the misty drowsiness of the morning. The words "Never Trust Money" on the t-shirt of a man waiting right in front of me almost whisper the silent philosophy of this adventure I am about to step into. Never trust money! A tired yet equally deep question echoes in my mind at that moment. Truly, amidst all this destruction and resurrection, what does a person hold onto to take their steps in this life? The answer lies hidden in that unshakable faith fluttering just beneath our ribcages. In geographies where materiality loses its rule, our most genuine capital that we can carry beyond the wires and borders deemed insurmountable becomes our faith.
The Universal Language of Music
The moment I cross the border, a slight hesitation awakens inside me. I am completely unfamiliar with Arabic. However, the famous director Tony Gatlif's words "I speak all the languages of the world with music," which he said to me in an interview, come to mind and give me an indescribable courage. I tell myself, "I will find a way to communicate from heart to heart anyway, and if I fail to understand the words, I will sit down and sing Arabic songs with them".
I surrender myself to the harmony of the words pouring from the mouth of every Syrian I meet, feeling that melodic tone inside me. I look deeply into people's faces, and mostly into their eyes. I hope to erase the traces of that heavy grief, pain, and sorrow they have carried on their shoulders for decades, even with just a glance. I want to understand that they are far beyond merely surviving, but living with all their being through the joy of life in their hearts.
The Proud Stones and Sun of Aleppo
The touching melodies of Syrian artist Sabah Fakhri turn into the background music of my journey, echoing through those magnificent streets that resemble a colossal open-air museum. Those enchanting stone buildings, reaching up to the sky with their unique elegance in defiance of the exhaustion of years, whisper the fairytale beauty of Aleppo. Every avenue and street I pass opens up before me like the unique colors of a poetic painting where history is delicately crafted.
Contrary to what I expected, a lush green Aleppo welcomes us. The sun here is much different from the ordinary sun that gives light and warmth to the rest of the world. While the sun of Aleppo scorches our skin, it actually penetrates the deepest parts of our souls. Even the burning of that sun accelerates the blood flowing in my veins, making me feel full of life down to the marrow. I almost say to this heat, "Burn my inside more, penetrate my soul more, permeate my every cell".
Because this relentless burning completely ceases to be a scorching torment and turns into a fiery proof of surviving, of hope, and of taking a breath in defiance of all pain. As every piece of fire falling from the sky seals the warmth of resistance in these ancient lands to my heart, my soul resurrects as my skin burns. The rhythm of the heart beating in my ribcage blends with the tired yet proud rebirth story of the city.
In the midst of this resurrection, you lift your head, trees sway coyly among those elegant stone buildings, each uniquely distinct from the other. They compete with the memory of the stone... At that moment, one feels to the core that they are truly living, breathing the air filling their lungs in these streets. That unique positive vibe permeating the streets merges with the traces of hope for tomorrow on people's faces. Right at this point, while looking at the sun burning my skin and the green springing up between the stones, the famous verses of the Palestinian poet Mahmoud Darwish come alive in my mind: "We have on this earth what makes life worth living".
A Home Building the Future: Aleppo Anatolian Cultural Center
The heart of this meaningful visit, the Aleppo Anatolian Cultural Center, is located right in the center of the city. An entirely different spirit, a deep-rooted atmosphere unique to itself welcomes us here. This high-ceilinged mansion, built by an Ottoman pasha in 1912, embraces its visitors with all its splendor. Every single detail on its walls carries the sad yet equally proud memories of an entire century it has witnessed to the present day with a silent dignity. Its doors and windows look out onto the beautiful, bustly streets of Aleppo. While life flows at a great speed on this busy avenue lined with historical buildings, a brand new future is taking shape inside with the same lively rhythm.
A tremendous life energy, an unmatched effort, and dedication dominate the rooms. While new bridges of languages are being built in Turkish and Arabic classes, fresh windows opening to the world are slightly parted in English lessons. Computer, artificial intelligence, and robotic coding trainings expand the horizons of the youth as much as possible, and the finest tones of the soul find an echo in handicraft and music classes. Everyone remains fiercely committed to life, to themselves, and to Syria. People possess unwavering determination. Looking at all this intense work tempo and that unique sparkle in the eyes, I say to myself: This is exactly what revival is. Rebuilding what was destroyed, repairing what was broken, and offering the greatest contribution that can be given to social healing embodies itself exactly in these corridors.
Hope Replacing Pain
As the Bülbülzade Foundation, I personally observe that the bonds we have established here and these educational homes that have been opened carry a meaning far beyond just being course centers. In these ancient lands, hope is replacing pain, and the effort to rebuild is replacing destruction. Just like those coy trees slipping through the stones and reaching out towards the sun, life, and the future, these people are also taking firm roots in life.
Until next time, I leave these places with those harmonious melodies in my mind and that unquenchable fire of life in people's eyes in my heart.
Harun Karaburç
Bülbülzade Foundation
Corporate Communications Coordinator
